Winterising outdoor furniture comes down to four steps: clean it, dry it completely, protect it with a cover or move it into storage, and take cushions inside. The goal is to stop moisture getting trapped against timber, metal or fabric, which is what leads to mould, rot and rust over winter. Below, you’ll find the full checklist plus material-specific detail for every type of furniture in your backyard.

TL;DR:

• Properly winterising outdoor furniture involves cleaning thoroughly, drying completely, inspecting for damage, and protecting or storing based on material type.
• Using breathable covers and elevating furniture off the ground helps prevent moisture buildup, rust, and rot during winter months.
• Timber requires moisture content below 16-18% and needs to be kept away from standing water, while metal should be rust-treated and lifted off wet surfaces.
• Wicker, cane, resin, and plastic furniture need minimal upkeep, with resin typically only needing occasional washing to maintain condition.
• Cushion and fabric storage should prioritize ventilation and dryness, with regular checks to prevent mould and mustiness over the winter.

Table of Contents

• Quick winterise checklist to work through this weekend
• Clean, rinse and dry before you protect or store anything
• Material specific winter care for every type of furniture
• Cushions and fabrics: keeping them dry and smell free
• Choosing between covers, storage boxes and moving furniture indoors
• Preventing mould, rust and pests over the cold months
• Getting furniture ready again once the weather turns
• Why these methods work, from the Keter Australia blog
• What most homeowners get wrong about winter storage
• How Keter storage and furniture can make winter easier
• Sources
• FAQ

Quick winterise checklist to work through this weekend

Set aside an afternoon and work through these tasks in order. Each one builds on the last, so skipping ahead usually means redoing a step later.

1. Clean every surface with mild soap and water to remove dust, pollen and bird droppings (30 to 60 minutes for a typical setting).
2. Dry thoroughly in the sun or with a cloth, paying attention to joints and seams where water pools.
3. Inspect for rust spots, loose joints, cracked timber or fraying wicker before you pack anything away.
4. Remove cushions and fabrics and launder them separately.
5. Store or cover furniture depending on the material and how much space you have.
6. Elevate anything staying outdoors, off the ground and away from direct contact with walls.

Doing this now, rather than after the first frost, is what keeps furniture looking good come spring.

Clean, rinse and dry before you protect or store anything

Skipping the clean means sealing dirt, sap and moisture in for the whole season, which is exactly what breathable covers and storage boxes are meant to prevent. Different soils need different approaches. Dust and pollen usually lift with a soft brush and warm soapy water. Bird droppings and tree sap need a longer soak with a mild detergent before you wipe them away, since scrubbing dry residue can scratch finishes.

• Use a soft cloth or sponge with mild dish soap; avoid solvents, bleach and abrasive scourers on painted or resin surfaces.
• Skip high-pressure washers on wicker, cane and painted timber, since the force can strip finishes or loosen woven strands.
• Rinse thoroughly so no soap film is left behind, then dry with a towel or leave in full sun for an hour or two.
• Stand furniture on an angle or raise it slightly so water drains away from joints and doesn’t pool underneath.

Cushions need the same care. Remove covers, launder according to the label, and make sure they’re completely dry before storage, since even slightly damp fabric can develop mould within days in an enclosed box.

Pro Tip: Dry timber and metal in indirect light rather than harsh midday sun, since rapid drying can cause timber to crack and finishes to fade unevenly.

Material specific winter care for every type of furniture

Timber, metal, wicker and resin each fail in different ways over winter, so the fix looks different for each one.

• Timber: Keep it out of standing water and off bare ground, apply a breathable oil or sealant if the finish looks dull or patchy, and check for soft spots or insect activity before storing. Timber is prone to decay once moisture takes hold, and conservation researchers advise keeping wood moisture content below roughly 16 to 18% to avoid mould and rot setting in.
• Metal: Wipe away surface rust with a wire brush or fine sandpaper, touch up any chipped protective coating, and lift frames off wet paving or grass so moisture doesn’t sit against the legs.
• Wicker and cane: Clean gently with a soft brush, avoid soaking the material, and keep pieces off damp ground where prolonged contact can cause sagging or weakening in the weave.
• Resin and plastic: These generally need the least effort. A wash with a garden hose is usually enough, and Keter’s own maintenance guidance notes that resin furniture doesn’t need annual treatment the way timber does.

Painted surfaces benefit from a light wax or touch-up coat if you notice chipping, since bare patches are where moisture gets in first. For timber pieces with heritage finishes or older restoration work, specialist guidance on exterior woodwork covers the finer points of choosing a protective coating.

Environmental control matters more than most people realise. Museum conservation practice recommends keeping relative humidity between 40 and 60% for wooden objects, which is a useful benchmark even for a backyard setting: a dry, ventilated shed beats a sealed plastic tub every time.

Know when a piece is beyond a home fix. Deep cracks, soft or crumbling timber, or rust that’s eaten through a joint usually call for professional restoration rather than another coat of oil.

Cushions and fabrics: keeping them dry and smell free

Fabric holds moisture longer than any other material on your patio, which makes it the most common source of winter mould.

• Store cushions in a breathable or vented storage box rather than an airtight plastic tub, which traps residual moisture against the fabric.
• Add a moisture absorber or silica gel packet inside the storage container if you’re in a particularly damp climate.
• Treat light mould spots with a diluted vinegar solution and full air drying; if the smell or staining persists, replace the cushion rather than risk it spreading to others.
• Check stored fabrics once a month over winter, since a quick look now saves a ruined cushion later.

A dedicated cushion storage solution built with ventilation in mind makes this whole step easier to manage without dedicating a spare room to soft furnishings.

Choosing between covers, storage boxes and moving furniture indoors

You’ve got three real options for winter: leave furniture in place under a cover, move it into a shed or storage box, or bring it indoors. Each suits a different set of circumstances.

Covers work well for large or heavy pieces you don’t want to disassemble, provided the cover is a breathable, weather resistant fabric rather than a plain plastic sheet that traps condensation underneath. A cover that fits properly, without pooling water on top, is worth more than a cheap one that looks the part. Moving pieces into a shed or dedicated storage box suits smaller items and anything with fabric or cushioning, since it keeps everything dry and out of frost and wind entirely. Bringing furniture indoors, into a garage or spare room, is the safest option for anything with sentimental or high value.

• Raise furniture off the ground on blocks or a base to stop moisture wicking up from wet paving or soil.
• Keep pieces a small distance from external walls so air can circulate and condensation doesn’t build up against the surface.
• Disassemble tables and stack chairs where possible to save space and reduce the surface area exposed to weather.
• Check drainage around the storage area, since good landscaping and drainage around a patio or shed base reduces the moisture problem before it starts.

Preventing mould, rust and pests over the cold months

Most winter damage comes down to trapped moisture rather than the cold itself. Timber holds up well as long as its moisture content stays low. Conservation research ties fungal growth to wood moisture content above recommended thresholds, with mould commonly developing between 15°C and 30°C, though some species can establish at temperatures as low as 5°C.

• Elevate furniture on blocks or a raised base so air moves freely underneath and moisture doesn’t sit against timber or metal legs.
• Leave a gap between covered furniture and the cover itself where possible, since airflow underneath reduces the condensation that builds up in still, damp air.
• Do a monthly check for condensation under covers, new rust spots or patches of mould, catching small problems before they spread.
• Keep the storage area clear of leaf litter and garden debris, and avoid resting timber directly on soil, since both invite pests looking for shelter.

Wood preservation research backs this up: strategies that limit moisture, oxygen and temperature are what actually slow decay, more than any single product you apply once and forget.

Getting furniture ready again once the weather turns

Spring re-commissioning takes less time than winterising did, but skipping it means small issues turn into bigger repairs by summer.

1. Inspect every joint, fixing and fabric surface for damage that developed over winter.
2. Sand and re-oil any scuffed timber, and touch up chipped paint or protective coatings on metal.
3. Check cushions for mustiness or mould and replace any that didn’t survive storage well.
4. Give anything with serious rust, rot or structural damage to a professional rather than patching it yourself.
5. Note what you did and when, so next winter’s routine takes half the time.

Why these methods work, from the Keter Australia blog

I’m Liza, and I write the care guides on the Keter Australia blog, covering everything from storage layouts to seasonal maintenance for outdoor furniture and sheds. The advice here draws on that same practical approach: work with the material, not against it, and reduce moisture before it becomes a problem.

Resin furniture made from weather resistant materials can handle Australian weather with minimal seasonal fuss, and a storage table or storage box does double duty over winter, giving you a solid surface while keeping cushions raised off the ground and away from damp paving. That small bit of elevation is often the difference between a cushion that survives winter and one that doesn’t.

What most homeowners get wrong about winter storage

The biggest mistake I see is wrapping furniture in non-breathable plastic sheeting, which traps condensation and does more damage than leaving it uncovered. The second is putting off cleaning until the weather’s already turned cold and wet. A simple monthly check, clean before you cover, dry before you store, is enough to carry most furniture through winter undamaged.

— Liza

How Keter storage and furniture can make winter easier

A storage table or box does more than tidy up your patio. It can keep cushions and small items off wet ground and out of direct rain, reducing the moisture exposure that causes most winter damage in the first place.

If you’re weighing up new pieces for the season ahead, a few are worth a look on the Keter Australia site:

• The Rosalie 2 seater Sofa, built from weather resistant resin for easy year-round care.
• The Keter Claire Storage Table, doubling as extra storage and a raised surface for cushions or accessories.
• The Keter Corfu 2 Seater Sofa, a low-maintenance option that only needs an occasional hose down.

Check each product page for dimensions and specifications before you buy, so you know it’ll fit your space and storage needs. For garden beds and planters that need their own seasonal attention, the garden range is worth a browse too.

Sources

• National Centre for Timber Durability and Design Life
• Chapter 15 — Protection of wood-based materials (University of the Sunshine Coast)
• Preventive conservation — Wood (Museum of Western Australia)
• Keter Australia — product maintenance guidance

FAQ

How do I winterise my outdoor furniture?

Clean every piece, dry it fully, inspect for damage, then either cover it in place or move it into a shed or storage box. Remove cushions and fabrics separately and store them in a breathable container away from damp ground.

Can I leave my outdoor furniture outside in the winter?

Yes, provided it’s raised off the ground, covered with a breathable, weather resistant cover, and positioned away from external walls to allow airflow. Resin and plastic furniture generally handles this best, while timber and fabric need more careful protection to manage moisture and prevent damage.

How should I cover my outdoor furniture for winter?

Use a cover that fits snugly without trapping water on top, made from a breathable fabric rather than plain plastic sheeting. Leave a small gap for airflow underneath where you can, since trapped condensation causes more damage than the weather itself.

How do I protect wooden outdoor furniture in winter?

Keep timber off wet ground, apply a breathable oil or sealant if the finish looks worn, and store it somewhere with stable humidity when possible. Conservation guidance recommends keeping wood moisture content below around 16 to 18% to avoid mould and decay.

Does resin outdoor furniture need winter maintenance?

Very little. Keter’s own care guidance notes that resin furniture doesn’t need annual treatment, and an occasional wash with a garden hose is usually enough to keep it in good shape through winter.

Recommended

• Outdoor furniture materials: your guide for Australian homes
• How to prevent outdoor furniture fading in Australia
• UV resistant outdoor furniture for Australian sun
• How to secure outdoor furniture from wind: a practical guide