You can make light scratches on plastic and resin furniture far less noticeable with a good wash, a gentle baking soda paste and a bit of patience. Deep gouges can’t be fully erased at home, but you can soften them. The trick is to start with the mildest method and stop as soon as the mark fades, because harsh polishes and solvents can do more harm than the scratch.

This guide walks you through how to tell a scuff from a scratch, what to try first, what to leave in the shed, and how to stop the marks coming back.

TL;DR

• Wash first. Many “scratches” are scuffs or dirt trapped in the surface, and they lift off with mild soap and warm water.
• Use the fingernail test: if your nail glides over the mark, a baking soda paste will usually help. If it catches, you’re dealing with a deeper scratch that needs more care.
• Skip solvents and silicone-heavy polishes. Conservation guidance warns they can cause lasting damage to plastics.
• Always test a small, hidden spot first, and work gently in circles with a soft cloth.
• Prevent repeat scratches with felt pads, softer cleaning tools and sensible storage.

Table of Contents

• First, work out what you’re looking at
• What you’ll need
• Step by step: the gentle method
• For scratches that catch your fingernail
• What to avoid
• Quick guide by colour and finish
• Is it a scratch, or is it sun damage?
• Our perspective
• Stop scratches before they start
• Renting? Check before you rub
• When it’s time to replace rather than repair
• FAQ
• Sources

First, work out what you’re looking at

Plastic outdoor furniture isn’t one material. A white moulded chair, a woven resin wicker lounge and a high-density polyethylene Adirondack chair all behave a little differently. Wirecutter’s outdoor furniture cleaning guide groups plastic, resin and synthetic composites together and recommends the same gentle starting point for all of them: mild soap, warm water and a soft cloth or sponge.

Before you reach for anything abrasive, sort the damage into three types.

Scuffs and surface marks

These are often grey or coloured streaks left by a pot, a shoe, a rubber foot or a dragged table. They sit on top of the plastic rather than in it. They are the easiest fix and often disappear with a wash.

Fine scratches

These are hairline marks, usually from grit, a stiff brush or a bunch of keys. They show up most on dark colours and glossy finishes, where they catch the light and look like a spider web.

Deep scratches and gouges

These have actual depth. You can feel them, and dirt settles into them. They can be softened, but the plastic has been physically removed or displaced, so expect an improvement rather than a perfect result.

The fingernail test

Clean the area, let it dry, then run a fingernail across the mark. A simple home-care guide on removing scratches from plastic furniture uses the same idea: if your nail slides over it, household products such as baking soda are enough, and if it catches, you need something sturdier. That rule of thumb saves a lot of unnecessary scrubbing.

What you’ll need

Most of this is already in the kitchen cupboard or the laundry:

• Mild dishwashing liquid and a bucket of warm water
• Two or three soft microfibre cloths
• Baking soda (bicarbonate of soda) and a small bowl
• A soft sponge, not the green scourer
• Very fine wet and dry sandpaper in a high grit, only for deeper marks and only if you accept the risk
• A hose or a few clean buckets for rinsing
• Masking tape, to protect nearby areas

Step by step: the gentle method

1. Move the piece into the shade. Plastic that has been sitting in the sun gets hot and soft, which makes it easier to mark. Let it cool to the touch.
2. Wash the whole surface. Mix mild soap into warm water and wipe the entire piece with a soft cloth, not just the scratch. Grit left behind is what causes new scratches while you work. Rinse and dry.
3. Re-check the damage. Plenty of scuffs vanish at this stage. Do the fingernail test again on whatever’s left.
4. Make a baking soda paste. Mix baking soda with just a few drops of water until it’s a thick, spreadable paste. Wirecutter describes this as a mild abrasive that works for slightly tougher marks.
5. Test a hidden spot. Try the paste under a seat or on the back of a leg for a minute to be sure it doesn’t dull the finish.
6. Rub gently in small circles. Use a damp soft cloth with light pressure for 30 to 60 seconds, then wipe clean and look at it in good light.
7. Repeat sparingly. Two or three light passes beat one hard scrub. If the mark isn’t improving, stop and reassess rather than pressing harder.
8. Rinse and dry thoroughly. Any paste left in the scratch will dry white and make it look worse.

A note on texture

Many outdoor pieces have a deliberate texture, such as a woven wicker pattern or a grained finish. Rubbing too hard flattens that texture and leaves a shiny or dull patch that’s more obvious than the original scratch. Work with the grain or pattern where you can, and keep your area small.

For scratches that catch your fingernail

This is where you need to be honest about what’s achievable. A deeper scratch means material is missing or pushed aside, so the aim is to blend the edges until the mark stops catching the light.

Some people carefully use very fine wet and dry sandpaper, keeping it well wet, working lightly and following with the baking soda paste to even out the finish. Be aware that sanding changes the surface sheen. On a gloss or coloured piece you may trade a sharp scratch for a hazy patch. Try it only on a hidden area first, and only if the piece is in a spot where a slightly different finish won’t bother you.

Avoid heat tools unless the manufacturer says they are fine for your piece. Plastic can soften, warp or discolour quickly, and you can’t undo that.

What to avoid

The caution about polishes isn’t just a cleaning-forum opinion. The Western Australian Museum’s conservation manual advises that treating plastics calls for utmost caution and that interventions should only be considered when absolutely necessary. Museums are dealing with heritage objects, so your patio chair is a lower-stakes case, but the principle holds: start gentle, test first, and don’t escalate for the sake of it.

If you’ve seen car-scratch products, magic erasers or petroleum jelly suggested for plastic, treat them as experiments rather than fixes. They are designed for other materials and finishes, and on textured outdoor resin they can leave patches you can’t reverse.

Quick guide by colour and finish

• White and light colours: Marks usually show as grey or yellow streaks. A wash and baking soda paste typically does the job.
• Black and dark colours: Every fine scratch shows. Use the lightest touch and a fresh microfibre cloth, and accept that some haze may remain.
• Glossy surfaces: Gloss shows every change, so test carefully. A gently polished spot can look different from the surrounding area.
• Textured or woven resin: Scratches are less visible on texture, so a clean is often enough. Avoid scrubbing the weave flat. If you’re curious about the material, we’ve explained what resin wicker is and why it suits outdoor furniture.

Is it a scratch, or is it sun damage?

Australian sun can make a piece look worn when nothing has actually scratched it. Chalky, dull or faded patches are usually UV wear, not scratches, and they respond to different care. If your furniture looks tired all over rather than in one spot, have a look at our guides on restoring faded plastic furniture and how to prevent outdoor furniture fading in Australia. If you want a fresh colour altogether, our walkthrough on painting plastic outdoor furniture covers the prep and cure time.

Our perspective

We design and make outdoor furniture and storage from durable, recyclable resin and plastic, so we spend a lot of time thinking about how a piece ages. A few honest points from our side.

First, a bit of wear is normal. Outdoor furniture lives with chairs dragged across pavers, pot plants, kids, dogs and gritty wind. The materials are chosen so they don’t rot, rust or warp, which means a scratch is a cosmetic matter and not a structural one. That’s reassuring, and it means you can take your time rather than panic.

Second, gentle beats clever. The most common way we see a small mark turn into a big one is an enthusiastic polish or a strong solvent. Soap, warm water and a soft cloth do more than most people expect, and they cost you nothing if they don’t work.

Third, caring for a piece well is part of sustainability. Recycled and recyclable materials only deliver a circular benefit if the furniture stays in use for years. Cleaning and gently touching up a scratched chair keeps it out of the bin. If you’d like to know more about the materials, our Australian buyer’s guide to recycled plastic outdoor furniture is a good place to start.

— Liza

Stop scratches before they start

Prevention is easier than repair, and most of it is habit.

• Lift, don’t drag. Pick chairs up when you move them over pavers, decking or concrete.
• Add felt or rubber pads under feet and under planters sitting on tables.
• Sweep or rinse before wiping. Grit is the real culprit, so remove it before the cloth touches the surface.
• Use soft tools only. Microfibre or a soft-bristle brush, never wire or hard scourers.
• Keep keys, tools and cutlery off the surface. Use a tray or mat for hot or gritty items.
• Cover or store furniture in the off season. Our guide to winterising resin furniture explains how to pack it away without adding marks.
• Choose the right piece for the job. Our overview of outdoor furniture materials for Australian homes helps you match material to how hard you’ll use it, and our page on UV resistant outdoor furniture covers sun exposure.

For routine care in general, the same principle applies to other hard surfaces: mild soap does more than harsh chemicals, as this guide to soap-based care for hard surfaces explains for stone benchtops.

Renting? Check before you rub

If the scratched table is part of a rental, think about whose it is. In Western Australia, for instance, tenants are responsible for damage caused by themselves, their guests or their pets, and must ask permission to make changes to the home. Rules vary by state and territory, so check your own state’s tenancy body, and talk to your property manager before trying anything beyond a wash on furniture that isn’t yours.

When it’s time to replace rather than repair

Sometimes the kindest thing is a fresh start. Consider replacing a piece when:

• Scratches are deep and widespread, and dirt keeps collecting in them
• The plastic is cracked, brittle or has gone chalky across the whole surface
• A repair attempt has left a patchy finish you don’t like
• The furniture no longer suits how you use your space

If you’re ready to refresh, we make weather resistant outdoor furniture in resin and plastic, from dining and lounge sets to Adirondack chairs, balcony sets and sun loungers, plus sheds, storage boxes and garden products. Everything is designed for easy DIY assembly and built from durable, recyclable materials. You can browse the full range at Keter Australia, explore the garden collection for planters and elevated garden beds, or look at the Futura dining table in white if an outdoor dining spot is on your list.

FAQ

Can you remove scratches from plastic furniture with toothpaste?

Plain, non-gel toothpaste is sometimes suggested for light marks, and it works as a very mild abrasive. We’d reach for baking soda paste first, since it’s simpler and easy to rinse away completely. Whichever you use, test a hidden spot and rinse well so no residue is left behind.

Will baking soda damage my plastic outdoor furniture?

Used as a damp paste with a soft cloth and light pressure, baking soda is a gentle abrasive and is recommended in Wirecutter’s guidance for tougher marks on plastic and resin. Scrubbing hard or for a long time can dull glossy or textured finishes. Keep passes short and check your progress often.

Can I sand scratches out of a plastic chair?

You can try very fine, wet sandpaper on a deep scratch, but it often leaves a hazy patch that’s more visible than the original mark. Test somewhere hidden first and use light pressure. If the chair is in good shape otherwise, you may prefer to leave a deep scratch alone.

Why does my plastic furniture look scratched all over?

It may be fine surface abrasion from grit and cleaning tools, or it may be sun wear that has left the surface dull. Wash it with mild soap and a soft cloth first. If it still looks chalky or faded, it’s likely UV wear rather than scratching.

Is it worth fixing scratches on a rental table?

It’s worth a gentle clean, but check with your property manager before trying anything stronger. Tenants are generally responsible for damage they or their guests cause, and rules differ between states and territories.

Sources

• How to Clean Your Outdoor Furniture so It’s Summer-Ready, Wirecutter
• Treatments, Western Australian Museum conservation manual
• Rental home maintenance, Consumer Protection WA
• Tips For Removing Scratches And Stains From Home Plastic Furniture, Gharpedia

Recommended

• Keep Faded Plastic Furniture Looking Good for Months
• Repair a Plastic Shed in an Afternoon: Australian Fixes and Safety
• How to prevent outdoor furniture fading in Australia
• Winterize Resin Furniture for Homeowners With Museum-Grade Care and Ke